The Suit Size Matters

 Are there do's and don‘ts for cut depending on physical build? Yes and no. There are few absolutes, but several wise suggestions. And remember there is no substitute for great fit.

- Tall men can wear almost anything, graced as they are. But they should avoid bold pinstripes, as these emphasize a vertical line. Weighty fabrics such as tweeds are good, as are Glen plaids and windowpane checks. Cuffs on pants and pocket flaps are recommended. Tall men wear double-breasted and longer, more contemporary cuts well, if they so choose.
- Short men should think vertical. Keep details to a minimum. Avoid wide lapels. baggy pants, and cuffs. The idea is for the eye to travel top to bottom with little interruption. Pass on long jackets and double-breasted. Shorter jackets elongate legs. Stick with single-breasted. two-button jackets, which reveal more shirt and tie. Choose pinstripes and medium to dark solids. No bold plaids or checks.
- Heavyset guys (you know who you are) can still look nice while excercising and eating right to lose that excess baggage. Right? Don‘t fool yourself into thinking less suit translates visually into less you. Au contraire. Your suit must fit generously and impeccably, not tugging at any seam. Stick with medium to dark colors. Avoid patterns and light colors like they were a heaping of mashed potatoes. Muted stripes, hairline stripe, nails‘ head. and tic weave are the best patterns. Choose single-breasted two-button, crisp lapel, and strong shoulder. ln this case, drawing the eye upward is a good thing.

To Button or Not to Button, That's the Question

This isn't hard:

- Never button the bottom button on your suit iacket.
- Always button the one above it
- ll there are three, buttoning the top is optional. But you neither want to conceal the long line of your tie, nor look uptight. Sometimes buttoning the top can affect both.