How to Build your Suit Wardrobe

How many suits a man ultimately owns depends on three D’s: desire, dollars, and duties.
Some occupations may require only 11 couple oiisuils for occasional wear. He may get by with two or three suits total. ln most professional occupations, however, the suit is a four- to five-day-per-week necessity. For this man, the selection can he as broad as his sensibilities and wallet allow.
Obviously, he needs a bigger suit wardrobe. We suggest he owns a minimum of five.
The following is a guideline of how to build that wardrobe. It focuses on the first five suits needed for a professionals wardrobe.
From there, the sky is the limit.

The first five suit

We've talked about the first suit in which a young professional should invest: a charcoal or navy in super 100s... the best you can afford... and conservatively cut. Much of what you've learned about this first suit applies to the next four.

As soon as possible, it is wise to also acquire a winter wardrobe of five suits using the same guideline.

After the first suit, the lineup should look something like this:

2nd Suit: If your first suit was charcoal, the second suit should be solid navy—vice versa.

3rd Suit: A medium to dark gray stripe fabric suit. The deifference between pinstripe and chalk stripe goes heyond one word or two. Pinstripe is a very line, thin line spaced anywhere from one-sixteenth inch to one and one-half inches. Chalk stripe is thicker and wider. Neither, in case you were wondering, should resemble cheesy 1920's gangster attire.

4th Suit: A navy pinstripe (see note on 3rd suit).

5th Suit: A blue-gray in a solid, nail's head, or tic weave fabric. Nail's head and tic weave are both fabrics woven with a microscopic pattern overalI. The effect is solid,
but the fabric has an ever-so-slight texture.

These five suits afford many different looks, all of which fall within the realm of professional good taste. The following sections on shirts and ties will demonstrate how these five suits can be expanded into a whole host of ensembles. Don't worry you won't need a number system to remember what goes with what. These suits and the recommnmdcd shirt and tie wardrobe outlined next represent basic. foolproof comhinations for polished looks. In simpler terms, it all mixes and matches. Mistakes will be almost impossible.


Advice: How to maximize your wardrobe

In the early stages of wardrobe building, you may own only a few ties. That's OK it you maximize what you have. Do this by draping ties over each coat instead of hanging them on a hook or tie rack. After you wear one, flip it over and hang it on the suit. The next day, you’ll know to select another. Keep reversing each tie after you wear it once until you've worn them all. Then start back with the first. This forced rotation stretches your wardrobe. It's also a good refresher for the man with an
endless selection of ties who tends to wear the same favorites constantly.


Seasonal Allergies

ln this overscheduled world, it's tempting to put off the non-urgent until it‘s, well, urgent. While we are all for being in the moment.a certain amount of looking ahead is advised where your wardrobe is concerned.

This is especially true of seasonal wardrobes. By considering what's in “storage" a few weeks before the season arrives, you can be ready for the first temperature shift. Does anything need dry cleaning? (“No" is the correct answer, since suits should be cleaned before hanging them back for the season to discourage moths and stains setting in.) Are there buttons missing or other alterations needed? Does anything smell like moth balls? (Again, the correct answer is "no," since you’ve wisely discovered cedar and lavender as fragrant alterriab'ves,)

Answer “yes” to any of the above and the first warm spring day could find you in a sweat.

Besides, if you need to update or upgrade—it's time to replace an older suit or the raincoat is looking sad—it‘s better to shop early in the season, Later on. selection may suffer.