Glued/fused, half canvas and full canvas suit construction guide part 1

Glued/fused, half canvas and full canvas suit construction guide part 1

When you go out and buy a suit today, no matter if it is offline or online, chances are you encounter the terms glued, fused, half canvas or full canvas, so in this guide, you can learn about what exactly these terms mean, and why some jacket construction techniques are better than others.

Why you need a suit interlining or canvas:

The fabric is two-dimensional, it is woven and it is flat. A suit is three-dimensional so the interlining helps to keep the garment in its three-dimensional shape so it is flattering to your body. For the interlining, you basically have three options. It starts with glued or fused, half canvas, and full canvas. The full canvas is the best and fused is the cheapest and not so good option.

Fused/glued suit interlinings, number 1:

Fused or glued interlinings are the number one thing in the sewing industry today simply because they are inexpensive and you can produce it on a mass scale very easily and cost-effectively. The advantages apart from it being cheap, are that it does the job and it gives the garment a three-dimensional shape. The problems, however, are manifold. Because it is glued, there is not much flexibility in the garment and you can feel it because it feels less comfortable and it does not stretch when you move. Usually, you do get a chest piece that helps to form that three-dimensional shape that looks very masculine, however, in a garment of that category, you usually get something more inexpensive such as a cheap cotton or low-quality wool blend.

Fused/glued suit interlinings, number 2:

The bad thing about glued garments is that they are less breathable which can make you overheat more quickly and sweat. Generally, whenever you touch a fused garment, it will feel somewhat limp and depending on what chest piece it has, it could be stiffer or softer.